Watchmaking school!
We've been working a lot on our filing technique.
For the first month we've been learning techniques that will transfer to smaller parts, we've learned about materials, and we've dabbled with some of the tools. Well, maybe that's an understatement, we've been pretty busy. Long days all kind of blend into each other.
Max, a second year student, visits our side of the class to turn his handmade etachron tool on a lathe.
So far, there has been a big emphasis on understanding and achieving small tolerances, getting rid of burrs, and, well, filing. Tomorrow, though, we get turned loose on our first watch movement.
Above is an example of a filing exercise. This is a bench block. We start with brass stock and are given a blueprint. Armed with our files, drillbits (and a drill press), and a sharpening stone we craft our bench blocks with a tolerance of 0.1mm (which, in the watch world is still a large number).
This one called for a grain finish (achieved by use of the sharpening stone) which are those lines you see; it also called for curved ends which was kind of the crux of the assignment, since they had to be done with our file by hand. After you've gotten your shape, everything square and flat you've got to throw a 45º bevel on the edges and chamfer your holes finish and clean it, then hope you don't get any kind of scratch or oil from your fingers on the surface-because that'll cause it to oxidize/tarnish and you lose points for that.
Alum and water!
The smallest hole on the bench block is 0.5mm which is drilled with a pretty small drill bit (duh), you may be able to deduce that this is a very delicate hole to drill. A handful of classmates experienced this tiny bit breaking off into their bench block. This is where alum and some water heated over an alcohol lamp comes in. The reaction between the alum water and the iron based drill bit will dissolve the bit but leave the brass bench block (say that 5 times fast) unharmed.
The alum and water trick is one many of us will use down the road when trying to remove broken screws/stems/whatever from watch components. And it leads to this point, we're given these tasks with not always the most optimal tools, but the tools we are given are the tools that will prepare us for watches.
Orion: Field Standard
The prototype Field Standard
I rushed back to my small house, the tracking had shown the package had arrived. I ran to the mailbox and grabbed the small parcel that contained new dials and hands. I jumped back into my car and headed back to school. Class was now over but I all my tools were at my school bench-I don't really have the space to setup for watchmaking at my new house, plus I am able to use the school's equipment and space once class is finished.
I opened the package as quickly as I could, and laid out the parts on my bench, I couldn't help but smile as the wave cut indices and mountain cut hands glistened back at me. A couple people watched as I began the process of putting them all together.
Field Standard assembly. Photo: A. Diaz
Working with watch parts is something you should never rush-in this line of work the saying "haste makes waste" is pretty much on the mark; but I'll be honest, I assembled the prototype as quickly as I could. The results were better than I could have hoped for, it's been a lot of work moving here and starting school, though the rewarding bits are starting to add up and this was definitely one of them.
The Field Standard is a field watch, that much should be obvious. I thought I'd dress up the almost repetitively subdued watch style. The slightly angled and highly polished hour and minute hand work with the polished and wave cut indices as well as the polished bezel. The white seconds hand ties in perfectly with the white text on the dial and the white stitching of the black strap. Then there's the C3 lume on all the numerals and the hands, this thing glows.
I also Field Standard-ized my personal engraved case.
I'm really excited to work towards production of the Field Standard, I have a really cool engraved pattern idea for it as well as potential media blasted limited editions. Also, for the Orion: 1, you should keep your eyes peeled and your clicker fingers ready, because there's going to be a limited edition black cerakote run dropping soon.
A tiring transition.
It has been a long two weeks.
I feel a bit like this chimp at Goodwill.
The halogen lamps glow above me and the dryer whirs in the background. I have finished my first week of watchmaking school and have finally moved into my shared house. I've hardly had any free moments and exhausted doesn't really do whatever state I'm in justice.
Watchmaking school isn't the stressful part; despite the long hours and the repetition of filing for almost 10 hours a day, it's a lot of fun. The people are all different and interesting, yet we're all bound by a similar and rare thread. There's an anxious giddiness about all the first year students, and it's a refreshing new atmosphere for all of us-I wouldn't want to be anywhere else.
It's everything that's outside of class that's stressful. Moving is stressful, it's expensive, and damn, those car dealerships are like purgatory. There aren't enough hours in the day to accomplish what I need to accomplish-and that's running on little sleep.
I'm more than thrilled to be living the dream, though I suppose this period will serve as the humble beginning.
Alena, a classmate snapped this shot of me putting in my 1,543th hour filing the first project. She also sells cool enamel pins worth checking out. <--click
Oh yeah, seeing you all post shots of your Orion's on Instagram totally makes my day. Almost all of the orders have been sent out, your support means the world to me.
Pre-Orders Are Shipping!
The time has finally come! Watches are complete and pre-orders are being shipped. It's certainly a very busy time for me as I transition from Philadelphia to Seattle and prepare to begin watchmaking school. Nonetheless, it is also a very exciting time and I'm thrilled to have the opportunity to pursue and fulfill my passion, which of course, would not be possible without support from all of you.
An Orion Update
The Orion 1 with a custom strap from Fabnik
Orion production is still underway (the serial numbers were lasered just the other day!) and I am hoping that they will be complete by the end of the month. I wanted to take this moment to share some photos of the box and integrated strap (which I think looks great) that they'll be coming with.
The integrated strap fills up the space between the lugs for a seamless fit.
Worn & Wound Reviews the Orion
Photo by Zach Weiss
I sent one of the Orion prototypes to Zach at Worn & Wound. He took some amazing photos and wrote about his thoughts, click here to read about it!
The Traveling Watch visits Average Bros
The Traveling Watch visited Mark of Average Bros; check out his review!
Prototypes arrived and assembled!
The red dial variant of the Orion: 1
Prototypes have arrived and I finished assembling them today! Overall I'm very pleased with them, but a few tweaks are in order-such as adjusting the lug hole position (so straps fit better) and getting brighter lume. Everything is very high quality and feels/looks great in person. The crown screw down action is exceptionally smooth and fun to operate. I'm looking into having bracelets (oyster style) produced, in the meantime, strap suggestions are welcome!
Some specs:
- 100m WR
- Domed sapphire crystal w/ blue AR
- NH35 Movement
- 20mm lug width
- 40mm case diameter
- 49mm lug to lug
- Drilled lugs
- Screw down crown
Blue dial variant, every 5 minutes there is a blue minute marker. Strap is a placeholder.
There are two dial variants, the red and the blue. On the red dial the WR text is red and all minute markers are white, while on the blue dial there is a blue tick mark every 5 minutes. Each variant has a different tone and look, whether you want something a bit more serious or lighthearted.
Once prototypes are resolved a pre-order will be going up, stay tuned and be sure to comment with your feelings and share with your friends, it means a lot to me to spread the word and the success of this project is contingent upon it!
The Traveling Watch visits Timepiece Chronicle!
Photo by Ben Newport-Foster
Be sure to head over to the Timepiece Chronicle, the latest destination for the Traveling Watch. The Timepiece Chronicle is a cool site dedicated to finding and reviewing cool brands. Ben, the founder, has had the Traveling Watch for the past little bit and has written a wonderful and extensive review on the piece, complete with some nice macro photos. Click the bold text above to see what he has to say!
Orion prototype teasers!
The red variant.
The Orion prototypes are complete and looking good! Of course, I'll know more once they're in my hands, but right now these teaser photos will have to do!
Some info about the watch: It'll be around 40mm and have 20mm lug width. It features an AR coated domed sapphire, drilled lugs, screw down crown and 100m WR. The lume is also the white-in-light but icy-blue-in-the-dark BGW9 which is second in total lume brightness to the green C3. It's powered by the venerable automatic (and handwinding, GOTTA wind that crown!) Seiko NH35. It's also cased in 316L steel. As you can see, it's pretty dressy but from the specs it's also gonna be pretty tough. It's the kind of watch that you may wear to a wedding where the chance of getting thrown into the pool is high.
At any rate, once the prototypes arrived and receive the OK I'll begin a pre-order, which for simplicity's sake, will most likely be through this website as opposed to Kickstarter. The first run will be pretty limited, I'll also be sure to do some extra limited runs of engraved editions.
I'm really excited to see this begin to come to fruition-and to all the people who've helped me along the way (you know who you are) whether it was sobering talks, design help, or taking me out for a beer so I could vent-thank you so much!
Now for some more pictures!
Caseback with simple holes-so it's extra easy to remove (not that you should).
ORION PROTOTYPES ARE INBOUND!
The Orion watch prototypes are on the way! Things to expect are 100m WR, 40mm case size, drilled lugs and an alternation polished and brushed finish. This watch will be dressy enough to wear for special occasions, but tough enough to wear everyday. Oh yeah, and doesn't that crown look fun to turn? Will definitely be automatic and hacking, it'll also have a movement that should open up some customization for modders!
Stay tuned for the pre-sale!
Traveling Watch in Chicago!
The Traveling Watch visited GWJonesCreative in the windy city!
The Orion line is in development
Working on a new watch project, the goal is to have a diverse, classically styled, but still tough enough to be worn everyday. Currently, prototypes are being made but it's going to have some pretty good tech specs. Sapphire crystal (duh), drilled lugs, screw down crown and 100m WR.
Getting close! What do you think? As for text, red, white or blue?
Traveling Watch visiting King Kords!
The Traveling Watch visits King Kords in Tennessee! We're happy to be carrying his wonderful bracelets!
The Traveling Watch visits Theo & Harris
The crew at Theo & Harris spend a lot of time reviewing watches and selling wonderful vintage timepieces. I asked Chris if he'd like to host the Traveling Watch and he obliged! I think the review is really wonderful and am humbled by the kind words!
Cultural Dispatch reviews Watches by Nick
Chris Scott of Cultural Dispatch just finished up and published another great review of affordable timepieces. One of the watches he reviews is my personal engraved SKX. He goes over lots of affordable timepieces, other fashion items and even some consumables. It's a lot of fun and a good read, not to mention easy on the eyes!
Click on the photo to head to his site!
The Traveling Watch
The Traveling Watch visited Kicktoc from Instagram. As you can see, he takes beautiful photos! Be sure to stop by his page and enjoy some of his photos!
Mokume-gane dials are returning
After a few bumps in the road it looks like they're coming back! This exotic material is matte but once some light hits it, all the sparkling twists and turns of the contrasting metals are revealed. It will be available in a few different variations and colors, some of which fluoresce under UV light-very neat! Keep your eyes peeled!
Hamilton Khaki, a review
Hey Watch Family,
J.R. here from The Charleston Watch Society in my last post, I reviewed the Traveling Watch from our very own Watches by Nick. I am going to go out on a limb here and assume that since you are reading this you know whom I am talking about. (If you do not…. Well, you are on his website.) The Traveling Watch is a mil-style bespoke field watch. (To hear my thoughts, check out my review below)
Still feeling the flame from Nick's military styled field watch, I wanted to review the iconic Hamilton Khaki Field Auto. I am talking specifically about the 38mm reference H70455533. (One that I own and love) This watch pays homage to the military styled field watches that Hamilton has produced since the 1940’s. Everything about the Hamilton Khaki 38mm field watch walks a fine line between rugged and elegant. The watch is so simplistic, yet I find myself doting over the incredible design and its ability to captivate me for hours on end.
An automatic ETA 2824-2 movement powers the Hamilton Khaki Auto 38mm. (ETACHRON- Eta: is a subsidiary of the wonderful Swatch group, and was once part of Eterna. I could trace back further, but that will be another review. For now just know I am referring to the automatic movement) The ETA 2824 is a true workhorse. (ETA.SA are held to extremely high standards.) Eta produces three in-stock variants of the 2824, a base model, a mid tier model, and the highly decorated top tier model. This particular variant of the 2824 is a standard base model. Which in my mind is absolutely perfect for the simplistically rugged Hamilton Khaki. It has 25 Jewels running at 28,800 BPH. The movement also features a date function, corrector, as well as a hacking second. The hacking function helps to set and synchronize the watch. It has a smooth sliding second hand that sweeps around the watch slowly perpetuating the hour and minute hands. Last but not least it is outfitted with a shock protectant. In my opinion the rugged and reliable 2824-2 is the perfect counterpart for the Khaki. Remember this watch is about functionality. Like traditional dive watches, I consider field watches to be tools. They where initially designed with the sole intent of helping people in harsh and formidable terrain tell time. In this case the military and infantrymen that fought in the fields, and trenches of WWI. (Starting to get the picture) Few other watches can be considered a tool watch, and this is one. The need for a spiced up 2824-2, or in-house movement would just defeat the purpose; and most definitely raise the price.
Onto its physical appearance, attributes, and the aesthetics of this beautiful watch. The Hamilton Khaki sits in a 38mm X 11.5mm case, which is a perfect size for this watch. It is composed almost entirely of brushed stainless steel, while having a smooth, mirror like reflective polished (SS) bezel. The polished bezel is a great touch, one that helps to dress it up a bit. The dial is dark, dark black with the traditional white numerals making for a beautiful monochrome face. It sounds like it could be crowded when you hear all that goes on with the dial, but it’s not in the slightest, allowing for the reader to have easy access to everything essential. The dial does not feel clustered, overcrowded, or forced at all. You will have no trouble figuring out exactly what time it is. The 60-second markers sit on the outermost edge of the dial. (The font just right in size, not too small, but not so large that it becomes screwy) As tradition goes, this mil-style field watch exhibits boldly styled twelve-hour numerals pronounced in white. They sit in a grooved like ring that resembles the tacks of an old record. These grooves do a great job separating the twelve-hour numerals, and also help to add dimension to the dial. The circular track also catches the light, adding different little accents that I enjoy. As is tradition with this watch, the 24-hour markers are directly below the hour markers. This provides your eyes with easy access to the time, and quick readability. Hamilton is layered horizontally across the upper-middle portion of the inner most part of the dial, right below 24:00. Khaki Automatic sits centered on the inner most portion of the dial, above the 18:00. The hour and minute hands are white, and covered in C1 superluminova. So are the hour markers, and the dots that mark the hours. Providing for an awesome look at night. Though the lume is great when initiated (holding a light over the watch) its not the strongest lume out there (Definitely NOT the worst!). The second hand (white) has a red tipped arrow at the end, adding a pop of color that just feels and looks great! Enough to help add to the bravado of this watch, while maintaining the subtle theme 'less is more’ (functionality!).
This watch is all about purpose, and function-it’s just an added bonus that it looks so nice.It couldn’t serve as an every day tool watch, if it didn’t have the date, could it? The date window is conveniently located at 3 o’clock, and has an easy set function. The watch has a flat, yet slightly domed sapphire crystal, something I want in my everyday wearer. (I would like to point out that the domed Sapphire is minimal at that!) It does however lack any AR coating (Anti-Reflective) and that should not be a problem: unless you are taking pictures. (I need AR) Hamilton Watch doesn’t seem to use AR coating, something I couldn’t find much information on. (Please comment below if you know) Incase you don’t know; sapphire crystal is extremely resistant to scratches. The exhibition case back is also sapphire crystal. In my humble opinion the ability to see the movements is an added bonus, one that is never a necessity, but something I enjoy nonetheless. This feature is just one of those added bonuses (never a make or break for me) that watch brands choose to either do or not do. In this case, I think that it helps with the overall feel of the watch, and its one of those subtle touches that dresses, an otherwise completely utilitarian watch up. If you read my last review (On Nick’s Traveling Watch) you know that I think it is also nice to be able to see a bit of what is under the hood. Last but not least, the crown is a large perfectly sized crown that bares the letter H. The size is perfect, large enough for you to have control with no problems, and never feel like it’s going to just pop off. (Speaking of pop off) The crown is not a screw in crown; it’s just a push in crown. Although I knew that when buying this watch, it is still something that I would have liked to see.
This particular model, the Hamilton Khaki Auto 38mm ref H70455533 comes on a brown leather strap. The strap has contrasting white stitches, going with the overall vintage feel. The leather on this particular model is actually a bit stiff. This is a tough for me (Seeing that I own 3 Hammys) because it didn’t bother me at all. However, I know how soft flexible, plush leather feels. I cannot tell you why they chose stiffer leather; I am going to go with “durability.” (And to keep costs down). There are four different variants of this model; one that comes outfitted with a stainless steel bracelet, one on a black leather strap. Then, last but not least; we have the “bold silver” faced variant on brown leather.
Overall the watch is great, and I really love it. I can typically find more then a handful of things that I would like to change, not in the Khaki’s case The MSRP is right around $575.00 and for that price you cant beat it. I mean come on, a Swiss Automatic movement (An ETA 2824-2 on its own can go for $250.00+), sapphire crystal and an exhibition case. That alone is worth more then $575.00, but remember Hamilton Watch is a large brand. The same company that owns Hamilton owns the company (ETA) that manufactures the movement. (The Swatch Group) I recommend if you like this watch, buy it. I also recommend that you look around for different AD’s on the Internet and hopefully you will come across a slightly better price. If not, definitely don’t feel bad paying MSRP, you will have a great watch. I will leave you with a few final words; always do your due diligence! And if it sounds to good to be true, It is...
Pro’s:
· 38 x 11.5mm is the perfect size.
· Sapphire Crystal.
· Monochrome face, easy to read.
· Homage to watches that came before.
· Exhibition case back.
Con’s:
· There is no AR coating.
· Leather is a bit stiff.
· Push in crown.
· Lume could be brighter.
· Minimally domed sapphire crystal.
Charleston, SC
Hey Watch Family, If you are reading this you either know me from Instagram (@Thecharlestonwatchsociety), or you know Nick (the owner and designer of the Traveling Watch/ Watches by Nick.) This is my first official review for Watches by Nick , and I will be reviewing a plethora of different watches on this very blog. I will be going through and giving you my take on many of my personal watches. I will also be getting hands on with many contemporary grails.I will focus on a few incredible vintage pieces that are floating around Charleston. I am also going to throw in the occasional watch (es) that I think you need to know about, or just think are down right cool. I will be quest appearing on @watches_by_nick (Instagram). Make sure that if you are not already following us, you are checking in periodically.
With this being my first official review. Nick being generous enough, and interested in hosting my reviews, I thought it fitting to start off with the review of the Traveling Watch. I was presented with this incredible opportunity to be a host, and essentially go on a stay-cation with the Traveling Watch. What is the Traveling Watch? Nick thought it would be a great way to allow people to get a first hand look at one of his fine watches. The Traveling Watch is a military inspired Field Watch that Nick created. This watch set out to hit the mean streets of America, to see the sites that have made this country great, and eventually the world. (Any takers in Russia? Comment bellow, no seriously!) I think it’s a rad idea; so even if the watch had been horrible. It would have still got a point for a serious cool factor.
What is the Traveling Watch I call it a bespoke field watch. You might call it a modified Seiko, and we are both technically right! For this reviews sake, since I am the writer I am going with the bespoke Field Watch. A Seiko 7S26 automatic movement powers the Traveling Watch. Seiko’s 7S26 movement is a tried and true work horse, no frills, gets the job done movement. This is the very movement that is in many of the Seiko watches we have come to love. It is also a movement that has helped Seiko dominate the practical watch market. Even if you are a complete watch snob, who looks down on Seiko you respect this movement. It was originally introduced in 1996 and has continued through to today (There are several variants) the 7S26 movement has 21 Jewels with a Vph of 21,600 A/H and a killer power reserve of 40 hours. (Give or take) It’s even magnetically resistant to about 60 gauss. Just in case you like to bounce your watch off things, rest semi assured, it is outfitted with Diashock shock protection. The Traveling Watch boasts a clean traditional black and white dial. It has small yellow triangular indices marking the hours. (Suggesting a little quasi-Patina) As it is inspired by the traditional military styled Field Watch, the hours are marked clearly in white, with a set of smaller 24-hour markers on the inside track, placed perfectly below the traditional 12-hour markers. The white hour markers sit on a bed of black for the dial, again making for easy readability and a super sweet traditional look. This design makes for optimal visibility, and the ability to tell accurate time whenever, wherever. Nick did not stray far from tradition. He did however add some sweet new upgrades that you will be hard pressed to find, on most traditional Field Watches. To help make the dial more visible and in my mind more readable, there is a domed magnifying crystal. The watch is also fitted with C3 lume to help you see in the dark, or while you are making the dangerous trek from bar to bar. Everything I have discussed above fits perfectly into a 39mm stock Seiko case. (Hitting my sweet spot, between 36mm-42mm) I know that can be small for some people. The wrist presence that this watch projects will quickly help you forget that you ever needed a larger watch. The Traveling Watch was issued with a standard NATO strap, but after what seemed to be an incredible visit to Artisan Strap Company, it was decided that it needed to be on one of their beautiful 20mm leather straps (check them out!)
What is the Traveling Watch? Like I stated before, it is a bespoke military style Field Watch, powered by an incredibly reliable automatic Seiko 7S26 movement. Nick’s Traveling Watch is like an ode to the traditional timepieces that we used on the battlefields years ago. While the watch plays into tradition, it still has a subtly modern, and contemporary feel that you are sure to notice.
It is true, I absolutely fell for this watch, and Nick’s brand in general, but no watch review would be complete without the cons list. This part is not that hard, there are definitely a few things I would change and or like to see. The domed magnifying crystal can make it hard to see at an angle as it distorts the view from the side. The exhibition case back is an excellent touch that I feel most people enjoy. I do as well; it is always fun to see what you have under the hood. The Traveling Watch has the original Seiko exhibition case back, which to me feels slightly unfinished. That is an incredibly easy fix that I believe Nick is addressing. Remember this is a bespoke Seiko watch. No one is hiding that fact; I guess I would like to see a slightly more personalized exhibition case. That might just be me, because I see this watch completely independent of Seiko. Being that it is powered by the 7S26 movement it is lacking a hacking seconds hand. Last but not least I would like to see a screw in crown. Not because I want to go diving, but because I feel it would add a bit of a twist to this watch. Overall I had an amazing romantic week with the Traveling Watch. Matter a fact my fiancé told me if I want to do this again I either need to bring her along, or better yet she wants an one of Nick's beautifully engraved pieces.
Final thoughts; the fit and finish are great, the movement that powers this watch is one of the best, and it allows the watch to be durable, reliable, and affordable. The color scheme is perfect, and as I said extremely traditional. The watch itself was extremely durable; this watch has seen its fair share of cities. While visiting the different places it has accumulated many love taps, yet it never skipped a beat. I would love to see a hacking function, and a more personalized exhibition case back. I had many different people ask what kind of watch it was, and it was definitely fun to compare it to my Hamilton Khaki Field Watch. (Which I will definitely review) Nick has a passion for horology, and this shows in his watches, he strives to create a quality product for an affordable price. What did they say, build it and they will come!! I think so…..